The saddle of my Republic Duolian

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The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby meanders » Tue Jun 21, 2011 11:42 am

Hello,
The saddle of my Republic Duorian is not realy ok. It stands not in right angles with the biscuit. Is it necessary to change the saddle? I can not move the saddle because it is glued with the biscuit. If I must change the biscuit with the saddle how can I make the slots for the strings? I don't have six different files. Thanking you in anticipation!

Dirk
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Re: The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby Freeman » Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:15 pm

meanders wrote:Hello,
The saddle of my Republic Duorian is not realy ok. It stands not in right angles with the biscuit. Is it necessary to change the saddle? I can not move the saddle because it is glued with the biscuit. If I must change the biscuit with the saddle how can I make the slots for the strings? I don't have six different files. Thanking you in anticipation!

Dirk


If it is simply a matter of the saddle not being at right angle to the string line, you can either turn the cone in the well or if that won't work for some reason, loosen the screw and turn the biscuit on the cone (there might also be a drop of glue on it). Remember when you restring your guitar to leave one or two on at all times so the cone won't rotate.

If you want a new saddle/biscuit you can buy them at a number of places (I kind of like Paul Norman's carbon fiber biscuits but you can buy maple ones from Reso Outfitters, StewMac, NRP...). To do the job correctly you really do need a set of gauged nut files, but some people use welding torch tip cleaners or even jewlers files. Anyone who makes nuts will have the correct files.
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Re: The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby VintageNats » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:00 pm

Hi Guys, I notice that pretty much all the imported reso's have a slanted top to the biscuits. The question is, are the strings at the right height across the fingerboard?
If you look down the neck from behind the saddle towards the headstock, are the strings at the right height in relation to the fingerboard? Could be the slots that have been cut compensate for the slanted saddle top. Not sure why this is done, but's it's done regularly on both single cones and tricones it seems. If the strings are at the right height across the fingerboard, it's not to worry. If the strings are higher on the bass side and lower on the treble, then you may want to rework it.

It also could be that the saddle got tilted when someone overscrewed the screw from beneath the cone into the bottom of the saddle at some point. Not sure if you are the first owner or if anyone has ever worked on the guitar. The screw that holds the cone to the biscuit from below actually screws into a hole centered into the bottom of the round biscuit. If you were to screw it too far, it'll be pushing right up under the saddle and can actually push it up out of it's slot. Not saying that's whats happened, but if it got loose along the way and someone rescrewed it tighter, that could have happened. Does the saddle sit tight into the slot on each side of it? Is it tight on one side and lifted up a bit leaving a gap on the other? Even though it's glued in, it's still possible to get it out. In fact, I change the saddle on every one of my HOT ROD guitars. The tricones come out pretty easy usually, although some of them are glued in to the metal T bridge. The single cones are pretty much all glued in. To remove it, you can take a small finish nail, place it on once side of the saddle between the biscuit and the saddle, lay it on a table, and tap the nail in that little spot. The saddle USUALLY pops up on that side and the whole saddle can then pull right out. I'd say 8 out of 10 times that is the case. You can then fashion a new saddle using maple as I do, or whatever wood you choose to use for it.

If the action is too high on one side, but fine on the other, you can place a piece of 220 sandpaper on a flat surface, and slowly sand the bottom of the current saddle releveling it so the high side is lower. OR you can sand top of the saddle lower on the high side from above and recut the the slots in the same location. You can then just put the saddle back in the slot with just a drop of wood glue in the middle of it. Let it dry before you screw it on to the cone so the screw from below doesn't disturb the glue joint.

If it's already too low and you want to use another piece of material for the saddle, trace out the old one and give yourself a little extra height. Take note of the string spacing. Some of the imported guitars (not all) will have a fairly narrow string spacing at the saddle. In other words, the strings don't fan out along with the fingerboard as they get down the neck and towards the saddle. Now would be the time to widen the spacing a bit as you'll be cutting new slots for the saddle. Set the two outer strings first by leaving the tailpiece on and stringing up the two strings and putting the cone and saddle in the guitar with no coverplate. Mark the location of where they should be on the saddle top w a pencil, and then measure the gap. There are rulers that have gauges for this which I use, but you can just divide the distance with a ruler and then mark the string locations in between the two outer strings equally. If you get this far, and the saddle is the right height, you'll then need to cut the slots. I suppose you could just take the saddle to a local guitar shop at this point and schmooze an employee to cut the slots with their nut files on hand. We're talking just a few minutes, they might do it gratis for you or charge a couple bucks. It'd be better if you brought in the guitar fully strung with no coverplate and the slots marked and asked, can you cut these slots for me? That way you can together really dial in the string height while it's strung while paying very little since the work is mostly done. We're talking 5 minutes or so to cut the slots. Just move the string aside one at a time and then drop the string in the slot.

Hope that helps. Just trying to see it from your angle and cost you as little as possible. I'd upload some pics but not sure how.
Cheers, Len
http://www.nationalguitar.com/
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Re: The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby eldergreene » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:01 pm

Just to say that the Stewmac saddle sounds far better in my Republic Duolian than the original ever did, worth swapping IMO..
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Re: The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby gaucho » Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:08 pm

Do you have a link to that saddle from stewmac? Did it require much work to make it fit?
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Re: The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby wellvis » Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:45 pm

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Re: The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby alvanorichie » Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:56 am

Ending her concerts, as she usually does, with her unbelievable cover of the Fleetwood Mac classic “Oh Well” simply blows the roof off the place every single time.
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Re: The saddle of my Republic Duolian

Postby kiwiblues » Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:33 pm

:?: :?: :?: :?:
alvanorichie wrote:Ending her concerts, as she usually does, with her unbelievable cover of the Fleetwood Mac classic “Oh Well” simply blows the roof off the place every single time.
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