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Big Road Blues Discussion Forums 2006-04-25T21:26:42+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/feed.php?f=7&t=804 2006-04-25T21:26:42+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8036#p8036 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]> >apprehensive.
>

Yes. When I think about it, it seems pretty remarkable that the truss rod works at all. I don't know how long it had been there, but the guitar was hanging on the wall of a second-hand shop with an open storefront and no air conditioning about 100 yards or so from the sea. The strings were corroded, but the tuners weren't.

All the best.

Statistics: Posted by backdoorman — Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:26 pm


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2006-04-25T16:56:23+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8035#p8035 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]>
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."

Statistics: Posted by ricochet — Tue Apr 25, 2006 4:56 pm


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2006-04-25T08:27:25+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8034#p8034 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]>
Whew, I'm glad that worked!!
As you said, 'let it settle', before going any further.
Be careful, and enjoy.

CrowDuck

Statistics: Posted by crowduck — Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:27 am


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2006-04-25T08:11:43+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8033#p8033 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]>
I thank everyone for the advice on this one and hope to be able to return the favor someday.

Statistics: Posted by backdoorman — Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:11 am


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2006-04-23T00:00:33+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8032#p8032 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]> >>
>>"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
>
>I'm not '100% certain' about this, perhaps others will
>'chime in'.
>I believe there are 2 types of t-rods, single-action &
>two-way. I don't think the adjuster nut is easily removed,
>if at all, from a two-way, since it's designed to flex in
>two directions, and the nut is 'fixed' to the rod. I think
>single-action t-rods only flex in one direction, and that in
>most cases turning the nut in a 'clockwise' direction
>'tightens', while turning 'counter-clockwise' loosens, and
>if continued counter-clockwise the nut will come off the
>t-rod. I've only removed them from the headstock end, which
>is easier I think, than from through the soundhole. In any
>event, proceed with caution, and make adjustments in small
>increments. If you attempt the procedure I described be sure
>to lay down some padding under the guitar back around the
>edges, as the guitars back is curved, not flat. And yes, put
>some support under the heel area. I'd put it down on a
>desktop with the neck hanging off the edge. You'll have to
>stick one hand through the soundhole with the proper
>adjuster wrench, and hold the body down with your other,
>while your helper flexes the neck down from the headstock.
>The flexing should take tension Off the adjuster nut, and
>allow it to turn easier in a clockwise dirction. It helps if
>you lay something flat on the fretboard, like a carpenters
>level, for reference.
>I hope this 'makes sense', as it's my 2nd hand description
>of Dan Erlewines procedure. It's pretty simple 'to do', but
>harder to 'explain'. I hope this helps, and let us know how
>it works out.
>
>CrowDuck

I tried to remove the nut to lube it. (Thanks, Ricochet.) I loosened it all the way but was unable to remove it. Maybe it's a double-action t-rod. I sprayed the nut with some WD40 equivalent and tightened it back up.

Your description of the procedure is quite clear. I'll give it a try, making sure not to go overboard with the flexing and break the neck. If it doesn't help, I'll try the slow and steady approach 1four5 recommends.

Thanks again.

Statistics: Posted by backdoorman — Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:00 am


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2006-04-22T22:43:20+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8031#p8031 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]> >
>"A cheerful heart is good medicine."

I'm not '100% certain' about this, perhaps others will 'chime in'.
I believe there are 2 types of t-rods, single-action & two-way. I don't think the adjuster nut is easily removed, if at all, from a two-way, since it's designed to flex in two directions, and the nut is 'fixed' to the rod. I think single-action t-rods only flex in one direction, and that in most cases turning the nut in a 'clockwise' direction 'tightens', while turning 'counter-clockwise' loosens, and if continued counter-clockwise the nut will come off the t-rod. I've only removed them from the headstock end, which is easier I think, than from through the soundhole. In any event, proceed with caution, and make adjustments in small increments. If you attempt the procedure I described be sure to lay down some padding under the guitar back around the edges, as the guitars back is curved, not flat. And yes, put some support under the heel area. I'd put it down on a desktop with the neck hanging off the edge. You'll have to stick one hand through the soundhole with the proper adjuster wrench, and hold the body down with your other, while your helper flexes the neck down from the headstock. The flexing should take tension Off the adjuster nut, and allow it to turn easier in a clockwise dirction. It helps if you lay something flat on the fretboard, like a carpenters level, for reference.
I hope this 'makes sense', as it's my 2nd hand description of Dan Erlewines procedure. It's pretty simple 'to do', but harder to 'explain'. I hope this helps, and let us know how it works out.

CrowDuck

Statistics: Posted by crowduck — Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:43 pm


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2006-04-22T16:40:07+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8030#p8030 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]>
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."

Statistics: Posted by ricochet — Sat Apr 22, 2006 4:40 pm


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2006-04-22T03:38:37+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8029#p8029 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]> >
>It does, because the problem there is straightening out the
>string path between the end of the neck and the saddle. If
>the neck's tilted forward and you can't tilt it back, the
>saddle's the only other thing that can be moved.
>
>That won't work with a bowed neck. Lower the action over a
>bow, and the strings will make unintended contact with frets
>in front of the one you're fretting on. Use the test for
>neck relief Frank Ford demonstrates on this page:

Ah, now I see your point about correcting flexing at the heel.Thanks for the clarification. Anyway, as far as I can tell the neck isn't tilted. It is bowed.

The test on the link you provided indicates a gap a tad more than the diameter of a 0.24-inch light-gauge G string, too much for me to comfortably fret an F chord.

It looks like a bit more work from the t-rod is what is needed. My daughter's boyfriend is coming over next week. I think I'll try a cautious implementation of CrowDuck's suggestion for a toolless, two-man adjustment. If something goes wrong, at least I'll know who to blame.
;-)

Thanks very much.

Statistics: Posted by backdoorman — Sat Apr 22, 2006 3:38 am


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2006-04-21T23:36:27+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8028#p8028 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]>
It does, because the problem there is straightening out the string path between the end of the neck and the saddle. If the neck's tilted forward and you can't tilt it back, the saddle's the only other thing that can be moved.

That won't work with a bowed neck. Lower the action over a bow, and the strings will make unintended contact with frets in front of the one you're fretting on. Use the test for neck relief Frank Ford demonstrates on this page:
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musicia ... tradj.html




"A cheerful heart is good medicine."

Statistics: Posted by ricochet — Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:36 pm


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2006-04-21T23:30:54+00:00 http://www.bigroadblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804&p=8026#p8026 <![CDATA[RE: Tight truss rod]]> >
>Well, if you don't have any tools, you might try this.
>Loosen the strings to 'dead slack', or remove them
>altogether. Put the guitar body on a padded tabletop, back
>down, and have someone else (a helper) hold it down
>securely, whilst you apply weight and pressure at the other
>end around the nut/headstock. In other words, bend the neck
>back until it's flat/unbowed, and then tighten the t-rod 'to
>meet that adjustment'. Helps to lay something flat on the
>fingerboard for reference. If your t-rod adjusts from inside
>the soundhole, it's harder, and you'll have to swap
>positions with your helper. The idea is to 'help the t-rod'.
>Whatever you do, always slacken or remove the strings when
>adjusting the t-rod, and don't forget to clean & lube the
>nut and threads.

Thanks, CrowDuck. The t-rod adjustment is through the soundhole. Does the heel area of the neck require support during the bending back procedure? Also, how does one access the nut and threads to clean and lube them?

Statistics: Posted by backdoorman — Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:30 pm


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